Digital Textile Congress 2023

8h45-13h Session 1

Introduction

1. Key Industry Trends and Technologies that Reframe Textile Manufacturing, D. McKeegan, TelIntel (UK)
   Market shifts have accelerated the digitisation of the Textile Industry and affect all stakeholders across the industries complicated supply chain. In this presentation we will explore markets, buying behaviours, new technologies, materials, and their impact on future production.
   
   
2. Facts and fairy tales in Digital Textile Printing, J. Notermans, SPGPrints (NL)
   The presentation will address how confusing and sometimes even misleading the information about Digital Textile Printing can be. All printers have multiple printing modes, using uni- or bi-directional printing, single pass, one pass, multiple pass, etcetera. What are the differences and when to use what? The perfect print quality normally comes with a sacrifice on speed, or a fast print mode can only print certain designs. Data about resolutions can be very confusing, what can you expect from it and maybe even more important, what not? Pigment printing is becoming very popular, but what is the real workflow? Do you need to pretreat the fabric or not?
   
   
3. Keep going, keep growing, H. Haas, CHT (DE)
   After more than a decade of industrial digital textile printing, mills are now actively seeking to differentiate themselves from competitors. Within this talk, we will have a look at current technological advancements that might further enhance the ecological footprint of digital printing. In addition, we will shed light on some challenges of printing mills that might have kept them from growing in the past years and give insight into overcoming some of them.
   
   
4. Enter new dimensions with Jettex P inks in digital pigment printing and Explore DyStar pigments sustainable applications - Jettex inks – Unleash your creativity, H. Ozkok, M. Dorer, Dystar (DE)
   Abstract (tbc)

 

Coffee Break

 

5. Maximising print performance with reactive and acid inks, S. Daplin, SunChemical (UK)
   As the market for fashion and accessories has grown and developed, digital printing has become an established tool to enable vibrant prints onto natural fibres with reactive and acid inks. Whilst established technologies, both reactive and acid inks require careful process management for optimal results. Raw material selection, fabric preparation, printing and finishing all play critical roles to deliver the required print output. We will explore the impact of dyes and pre-treatment, the fabric and how when managed correctly there are sustainability benefits to be found.
   
   
6. Bio-based products and sustainable process - Urea replacement in inkjet printing, S. Hane, T. Ruchser, Tanatex (DE)
   Within the last decade, digital inkjet printing has become an excellent alternative to traditional printing. Digital inkjet printing delivers a variety of benefits such as greater production flexibility, limitless design possibilities and significant reduction in water and energy consumption. However, there is a downside. It requires a higher amount of chemicals in its fabric preparation compared to traditional printing. One of those chemicals is urea. When discharged, a high load of nitrogen is present in the effluent. Urea, which consists of 47% nitrogen, can be stripped from effluent using sophisticated, water filtration systems, however, these are costly and vulnerable to failure or accidental discharges. A better, more sustainable, solution is to reduce the amount of urea in your production processes, and ideally removing it altogether. The answer: TANAJETTM BioThe TANAJETTM Bio products are free of urea. We’ve replaced this ‘key substance’ with bio-based materials while still being able to achieve the market’s required results as well as complying to all ecological requirements. Our new range of TANAJETTM Bio products are a gamechanger for the textile industry due to its ability to create and manufacture greener textiles by transforming towards a more sustainable production process.
   
   
7. DMIx®: an innovative digital solution designed to revolutionize the physical supply chain, G. Willschütz: ColorDigital GmbH (DE)
   During this presentation, we explore the potential of DMIx®, an innovative digital solution designed to revolutionize the physical supply chain. Specifically, addressing the long-standing challenges of color matching and communication, DMIx offers a groundbreaking digital approach that transcends physical limitations and enhances efficiency, accuracy, and consistency throughout the physical and digital supply chain. As we enter an era where sustainability, cost reduction, speed-to-market and transparency are critical for market share, DMIx emerges as the transformative catalyst capable of propelling the industry into a new era of accessible color and supply chain management, driven by sustainable practices and advanced digital technology.
   
   
8. Can digital pigment be the first choice for fashion? R. Li, FUJIFILM Ink Solutions Group (UK)
   Advancements in digital printing technology are creating new opportunities for fashion designers and manufacturers, with dye-based inkjet the dominant technology for its vibrancy and softness. Digital pigment technology offers advantages in its simpler process and potential lower environmental impact compared to dye. But can digital pigment technology truly deliver the properties required for fashion applications? In this presentation, we will explore this question, and consider what ink developments would be required for digital pigment to be the technology of choice.

 

13h-14h Lunch 14h-18h30 Session 2

 

9. Digital print of camouflage and technical textiles, T. Naschberger, Zimmer (AU)
   The lecture deals with the digital printing of camouflage and technical textiles Camouflage:
   • Definition of military camouflage; color and infrared specifications
   • Applications and requirements; fabric compositions and ink selection
   • Advantage, disadvantage, and challenges of digital camouflage printing
   • Where are we standing, where are we going?
   Technical Textiles:
   • All technical textiles have special demands on functionality and fastness - a challenge for digital printing
   • Examples of Colaris printed samples (seat covers for transportation; aviation carpet; heavy Cordura fabric for sportwear)
   
   
   
10. Reducing wastewater pollution generated by digital printing with reactive dyes, a new solution for sustainable wastewater management, C. Gabriela, Lamberti (IT)
    Waterborne digital reactive dyes process requires several manufacturing steps that include the pre- treatment, fixation of dyes and the wash out of all treatments. Those steps need to be managed with proper chemicals and detergents to reduce the impact on polluted wastewater. In regards of ink jet printing with reactive dyes, we will compare the chemicals used at the present with our innovative biodegradable and bio-based pre-treatment and detergents, chemically developed to improve the reactive dyes digital printing process. The comparison will be presented showing the results at same level of quality and fastness on final printed fabric. All our biodegradable pre-treatment and detergents are based on innovative chemicals coming from vegetable sources and have been developed to minimize the impact on wastewater up to a possible reuse of the same wastewater.
    
    
11. Why digital textile printing with polyurethane based pigment inks makes the textile industry more sustainable, I. Bargende, T. Michaelis, T. Pohl, Covestro (DE)
    For the textile industry, sustainability is a matter of great urgency. According to the European Parliament, the fashion industry alone accounts for 10 % of the global CO2 emissions. Clothing and shoes in particular represent a significant environmental problem. Obviously, the textile industry is ripe for a change. In view of the high overproduction in the textile industry, disruptive technologies, processes, and material solutions are necessary to enable a more sustainable future of the industry. A technology shift from analog to digital textile printing technologies can help to produce single-digit lot sizes close to end customers and in an energy- and resource-saving way. This enables customer needs such as individualization and short-term availability to be met while simultaneously utilizing more sustainable printing processes. Polyurethane dispersions can help to overcome existing process and application challenges in digital printing, in particular in inkjet printing with pigment inks. They thus represent a material solution that, as an enabler, represents a technology shift towards more sustainable textile printing technologies. In this talk, most recent developments for white inks for DTG (direct-to-garment), Roll-2-roll (R2R) and DTF (direct-to-film) processes will be highlighted.
    
    
12. PERACTO Pigment Ink Technology – Innovation for water and energy reduction in digital inkjet printing and continuous dyeing of textiles, T. Schmaus, Farbenpunkt (DE)
    Abstract - Tbc

 

Coffee Break

 

13. Can textiles become the new standard for visuals..., M.Horsten,Agfa(NL)
    Today, visuals are made on a multitude of ink technologies, from UV to Solvent and from Wax to UV Gel but can Dye sublimation replace these technologies and become more eco-friendly than the other ink technologies. Reactive and acid textile inks are still very energy and water intense and pigment inks are still too expensive for large productions, Dye sublimation offers all the benefits. So, let’s look at the opportunities.
    
    
14. PVC-free,ECO-friendly and BIO-degradable banners for Soft Signage Printing, L.Tack, Captics(BE)
    Abstract – Tbc
    
    
15. How to reduce the environmental impact of a new collection through digitalization? I.Cornu, CETI (FR)
    LCA to compare the impacts of physical prototyping with digital prototyping as we have a full platform dedicated to digitalization of fabrics,garment design, garment production. In 2022, as part of the ECYTWIN project, CETI partnered with GEMTEX, a multidisciplinary national research laboratory of ENSAIT Engineer School, to study the environmental impact differences between a virtual and physical prototype of a dress. For years, the production of a garment required the validation of a final prototype, called Pre-Production Sample, involving many steps to improve the prototype before the brand was fully satisfied with the product. This process was quite time consuming and complex, generating an excess of prototypes and transports. However, today's sophisticated and accurate digital tools facilitate the entire prototyping process by providing a realistic representation of the product digitally, including the fabric and shape design. This new approach reduces the need to create numerous physical prototypes.
    As the digitalization of creation appears to be a new lever to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry, CETI and ENSAIT have gathered the creation processes of 11 companies in the Textile, Fashion & Clothing sector, in order to carry out a comparative LCA of physical and virtual prototypes.
    
    
16. ProjectS2GXR:R&D of textile trade platform with extended reality to increase the matchmaking potential of low-tech SMEs via cost-efficient and immersive showrooms,Heymans Patrick (SkalUP – Univ. of Namur, (BE), Kaiser Christian (Univ. Albstadt-Sigmaringen, Faculty of Engineering, Albstadt, (DE), Khodabandeh Saman (Mitwill Textiles Europe, FR)
    Project S2G XR is a research and development initiative aimed at increasing the competitiveness of European textile-producing SMEs by providing them with a cost-effective and immersive trade platform. The platform is designed to enable B2B suppliers to digitize, manage, develop, communicate, and push/pull their products more efficiently and at a lower cost, thereby making them more competitive in the market. The platform is powered by state-of-the-art XR plug-ins that create high-definition 3D showrooms for garments, providing potential B2B buyers with access to a pool of unique and price-competitive products from Europe. To ensure accurate and valid production data for goods being visualized in XR, the platform relies on colour configuration, which is an essential aspect of the research. Mitwill Textiles, a digital print micro factory with expertise in colour management systems, will help create and apply colour profiles to digital models, employing various algorithms and colour profiles to create a seamless and visually appealing experience for end-users. The methodology for this research includes literature reviews, empirical data collection, qualitative interviews, and data analysis to draw scientific conclusions. The platform's prototypes will be developed subsequently. To quantify the project's impact and formulate verifiable results, we will use the methodical strategy of designing and defining user scenarios, testing, and proving those, and incorporating industrial insights and research from partners. Overall, project S2G XR aims to mitigate the problematic import volumes of European textile brands and buyers by providing a sustainable, transparent, and peer- reviewed platform that allows European textile-producing SMEs to compete more effectively in the global market.
    
    
17. Next in fashion? Digitalization in fashion,Çiğdem Ertikin, Univ.Istanbul(TR)
    The emergence of social media has brought about an irreparable transformation in the way fashion is presented. Social media platforms have enabled users to seamlessly communicate and interact with fashion brands. As more people turn to social media for wardrobe advice and to follow new trends, fashion brands have also actively adopted social media tools. By leveraging social media, fashion brands can gain increased brand visibility, reach a wider audience, and attract potential customers with diverse characteristics. Social media has, in many ways, modernized the fashion industry by democratizing fashion presentation. Fashion is no longer limited to a certain segment of consumers, but accessible to all segments. Digital-based fashion allows anyone to express and disseminate fashion ideas without any barriers. Furthermore, social media has greatly influenced the way consumers shop and make purchasing decisions, causing fashion brands to allocate their marketing budgets differently than before. In this context, fashion phenomena with many followers and influencers on social media have become a popular marketing method. In addition to all of these, digital influencers, also known as "virtual people," started with Lil Miquela, who was first created by Trevor McFedries and Sara DeCou in 2016 and now has almost 3 million followers on social media, have become the newest faces of the fashion marketing world. In the past, fashion bloggers were seen as potential replacements for printed fashion magazines. However, with the introduction of Instagram into our lives, fashion bloggers have evolved into fashion influencers. While this new phenomenon is still in its early stages, we are already seeking fashion advice from virtual influencers. So why is digitalization important in fashion presentation, and furthermore what is next in fashion?

 

18h30-21h Walking dinner